Category: essentials

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Vandra lätt med små barn.

Karl-Johan Piehl, van fjällfarare och tillika författaren bakom böcker såsom Sarek National Park Guide och Sarek Vandring, löpning & klättring med lättviktspackning delar här sina erfarenheter efter en Sarekvandring med barn, 6 och 8 år gamla. Det här är hans story.

Sommaren 2022 begav jag mig genom Sarek i 10 dagar med mina barn, då 6 och 8 år gamla. Två vänner följde med oss på turen och vandringen blev fantastiskt lyckad. Barnen är fjällvana, gillar att gå och har tillbringat mycket tid i fjällen under hela sin uppväxt. Efter att vi sommaren 2021 gjort ett stort antal toppturer i Härjedalsfjällen hade barnen visat sig vara redo för längre turer med mer komplexa inslag såsom Sarek ofta bjuder på. Den största utmaningen var nog inte för barnen, utan för mig som vuxen att göra en bra planering. Barnen stortrivs på fjället, och livet är enkelt där. Vikten på ryggsäcken är en begränsande faktor för hur länge vi klarar vara ute. Här följer aspekter kring hur jag resonerat.

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Karl Johan med familj i Bierikvarasj

Förutsättningar jag ville få till för en lyckad tur

  • Storslagen miljö som lämnar intryck.
  • Barnen ska känna sig starka och kompetenta på fjället. Därför ska de bära så lite packning som möjligt, helst inget.
  • Inga hungriga barn, de ska ha välplanerad mat de kan äta i adekvat mängd.
  • Vi ska ha bra utrustning och kläder anpassade för kalla temperaturer, vind, väta och dåligt väder.
  • Barnens kläder ska lämna utrymme för lite slarv med väta och smuts.
  • Tidsschemat för turen ska ha goda marginaler.
  • Barnen ska ha så fria vingar som möjligt, dvs uppmuntras ta egna beslut, styra tempo och inte radiostyras av en vuxen.
  • Jag bär så lite som möjligt.
En tarp i dcf fungerar som ett vind och regnskydd vid pauser och vid tältlägret. Tarpen på bild är från svenska Skalmo Gear

Packning

  • 6åringen bar en ryggsäck med alla sina kläder som vägde cirka 2kg.
  • 8åringen bar en ryggsäck med alla sina kläder som vägde cirka 2.2kg.
  • Jag bar en ryggsäck som vägde cirka 35kg, fick dock avlastning av en vän första 3 dagarna på turen. Maten vägde 25kg, övriga grejer cirka 10kg.

Fritt fram att räkna på vad som hänt med ryggsäcksvikter här ovan om vi använt mer traditionell fjällpackning, låt säga 10-15kg var i basvikt (exklusive mat).

Övre Rapadalen

Klädsystem för mig som vuxen: ett par ullstrumpor, syntetkallingar, löptights, ullunderställströja, vindtröja, keps, solglasögon och trailrunningskor. Förstärkningskläder: termobyxor, dunjacka, syntetdunjacka, mössa, fleecehandskar, regnställ, goretexstrumpor och regnskalvantar. Extrakläder: ett par ullstrumpor.

Klädsystem för barnen: ett par ullstrumpor, syntetkallingar, tunna softshellbyxor, ullunderställströja, vindtröja, keps, solglasögon och trailrunningskor. Förstärkningskläder: termobyxor, tjock syntetdunjacka, fleecetröja, mössa, myggnät, montagehandskar, fleecehandskar, regnställ, goretexstrumpor och regnskalvantar. Extrakläder: två par ullstrumpor, ett par syntetkallingar, ett par extra softshellbyxor. Fryspåsar att ha i skorna vid läger.

Varje detalj i klädsystemen har jag valt ut efter bästa förmåga för att vara så lätt som möjligt men ändå fylla sin funktion. I stort sett ser valen liknande ut för mig som vuxen som för barnen, undantaget att de fick kraftigare regnbyxor, mer extrakläder och tjockare förstärkningsplagg än mig. Till barn är det dock betydligt svårare att hitta bra lättviktsprodukter. Mycket av deras klädsystem köptes i slutänden från gneis.se som är bland de bästa tillverkarna jag kunnat hitta för barnfriluftskläder. Själv väljer jag ofta kläder från bland andra Rab, Salomon, OMM, Enlightened equipment, inov8, patagonia, mountain hardware mm. Ofta kläder för löpning.

Underkläder, och även barnens byxor fick jag tvätta ett par gånger längs vägen och sedan torka i armhålan eftersom utemiljön inte bjöd på torkmöjligheter.

Sovsystem

  • Tält: zpack triplex. Inköpt specifikt för turen och numera mitt enda tält. Det finns flera saker som kan göras bättre vad gäller design och slittålighet, men samtidigt så är det ett fullt fungerande 3p-fjälltält som väger 700 gram. Det är svårt att konkurrera med.
  • Varsin vuxensovsäck fyllda med 3-400gram 800+FP dun. Barnen har inte egna sovsäckar då jag har flera sen tidigare.
  • 2st 3mm cellplastliggunderlag från skalmo kombinerat med 2 st therm-a-rest uberlight
  • 1st therm-a-rest neoair
  • Vi sover med thermobyxor, syntetdunjacka, mössa och strumpor på
Kartläsning

Ryggsäckar

Barnen hade varsin 16l ryggsäck från vaude som väger in på cirka 300 gram. Min ryggsäck är en 10 år gammal 75l ryggsäck som en kompis sytt till mig i x-pack. Den rymde maten, övrig utrustning fick fästas utanpå initialt.

Övrig utrustning

Stavar till mig och barnen, microspikes till mig och barnen, Garmin inreach, tarp från skalmo för raster och läger, drybags för kläder och sovsäckar, första hjälpen, myggmedel, hygienartiklar, lagningsgrejer, solkräm, kondenstrasa, telefon, klocka, kameror, powerbanks, laddkablar, betalkort, läsplatta, karta och kompass.

Mat

Enskilt viktigaste posten att lyckas med. Jag räknade på hur mycket energi barnen behövde och kom fram till cirka 2500-2700kcal per dygn. Månaderna innan avresa torkade jag mat hemma som barnen fick prova. Mycket inspiration från boken “Snabblagat på tur” av Eric Tornblad. All mat portionsförpackades i ziplockpåsar, var livsmedel för sig. Exempelvis torkade köttbullar, skinka, fetaost, ketchup, oliver, rivna morötter, ost, pasta, tonfisk, köttfärssås mm. Köpte även med en större mängd godis, chips, varm choklad, nyponsoppa, dextrosol, sportdryck, kakor mm. I slutänden hade vi med oss cirka 2.5kg mat med låg vattenhalt per dygn för oss tre, och det var mitt i prick.

Eftersom all mat var förberedd för att endast behöva tillsättas kokande vatten behövde vi inget kök för avancerad matlagning. Min to-go-brännare Soto windmaster med tillhörande 650ml toaks titankastrull och 550 gram gas räckte gott och väl för oss i 10 dagar. Maten åt vi ur findus soppskålar med titanskedar. Utöver det hade vi plastmuggar för varm dryck, och vattenflaskor för vatten.

Camp med Ahkka bakom

För mycket packning

Vi saknade inga grejer under turen, men vissa saker kunde göras bättre. Barnen ligger dåligt på uppblåsbara liggunderlag. Ofta fungerade liggunderlaget som täcke istället – eller bara utfyllnadsmaterial i tältet. Framöver blir det bara cellplatstliggunderlag, 10-15mm tjockt. Barnen hade inte behövt fleecetröjor, myggnät eller solglasögon. Eventuellt hade även microspikes kunnat lämnats hemma, de är dock sköna att ha i svåra vad och i blöt blockterräng. 8 av 10 dagar hade vi lätt regn, kalla temperaturer och ibland vind. Mitt eget klädsystem var jag trygg med sen innan, men barnen fick prova sina – vilka fungerade bra. För kortare fjällturer med god väderprognos hade vi kunnat skala bort en del.

Vad

Det finns många olika aspekter kring att passera vattendrag. Vi gick genom Sarek i början av Juli och startade vår vandring direkt efter den värsta snösmältningen var klar. Det innebar att vi de första två dagarna hade mer vatten än normalt. Barnen är dock vana i terräng och kunde stabilt korsa de flesta vattendrag utan hjälp av vuxen. De växte under turen och upplevde sig ha god kontroll. Jag gick oftast strax nedströms och samtidigt som dem som extra säkerhet. Över de kraftigaste vattendragen höll de mig i handen, vilket nog inte var nödvändigt. Två vattendrag bar jag dem över. Som vuxen tror jag det är nödvändigt att vara van vid vad för att göra adekvata bedömningar kring vad som är lämpligt eller inte om man ska göra såna här turer. Snöbryggor över bäckar höll vi oss borta från, det är alldeles för farligt.

Vad i Rouhtesvagge

Dagsetapper

För oss är 10-15km per dag lagom dagsetapp, det går dem gladeligen. Barnen och jag har förmåga att gå betydligt längre än så i obanad terräng, men vi ville ha gott om tid för lek, utforskande och sidoutflykter.

Ekonomi

Vår Sarektur med utgångspunkt från Stockholm kostade hutlösa summor pengar. Tågbiljetter 5.5k, bussresor cirka 2.5k, båt och övernattning 4,5k och vi gjorde även ett helikopterlyft upp på fjället för 5.2k för att få en enklare och roligare start för barnen. Utöver detta tillkom utrustning som barnen visserligen kan använda hemmavid också – men en hel del är i mina ögon väl lyxigt för hemmabruk. Som tur är hade jag mycket av utrustningen sen tidigare. För en del kanske det är normalt att två veckors semester kostar 25-30k. Men det går inte att påstå att det är billigt att ta familjen till Sarek. För mig som ensamstående förälder med ett normalt jobb är det prioriteringar som gäller för att en sån här resa ska vara görbar. Hyra stuga med dagsturer från Härjedalen kan ge en fin och betydligt billigare fjällsemester, men inte lika storslagen natur!

Hjälpmedel för turplanering

För dig som är intresserad av Sarek på egen hand eller med barnen vill jag tipsa om min sarekguidebok som bland annat säljs på backpackinglight.se: Sarek: vandring, löpning och klättring med lättviktspackning. Där finns detaljerade färdvägar i Sareks dalgångar, och jag vågar påstå att det inte någon annanstans finns mer precisa eller omfattande ruttbeskrivningar för Sareks högalpina områden än de jag redogör för i min bok. Utöver det så finns även all utrustning beskrivet här ovan nedbrutet i detaljer som kan leda dig till korrekta och konkreta val av lämplig utrustning.

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My winter sleep system for ultralight hiking

Sleeping good in the winter

 

Keeping warm is essential to sleeping good. Hypothermia and freezing to death is not a fun past time. In the summer it’s easier to get along with Ultralight gear and probably survive.. Chances are good… In the winter however, things are different. Especially in areas like northern Sweden where I live – here the temperatures can easily drop to -30c in the winter. It’s important to be prepared and have a relatively good idea of what your doing. Here I will go over some of the details that helps keep me warm and comfortable during the winter months on longer treks:

 

  1. Sleep system
  2. Shelter
  3. Clothing
  4. Food before bed
  5. Run around for warmth
  6. Pee bottle
  7. Extra bottles for foot warmer in the morning

 

A also made a video of this article that you can watch below: 

 

Sleep system:

 

First on my list is the sleep system – this is by far the most important aspect of sleeping warm and safe in the winter. All parts of the sleep system must work in order for the whole to work. With a sleep system I mean of course the Sleeping mat and Sleeping bag.

My system for winter hiking looks something like this with an example of a week long unsupported trip in minus 20 to 40 degrees:

 

  1. Thick evazote mat – 14mm – this I usually have directly on the ground as I use floorless shelters most of the time. I can also use a double wide evazote mat which can also work as a nice wide ground sheet as well.
  2. Thermarest xTherm sleeping pad – added warmth and comfort. The xTherm isn’t really necessary when using a thick 14mm evazote mat, in fact I know a few people who use their summer pads or xLite in the deep winter without any problems. The 14mm evazote is warm enough on it’s own. The blow up pad is an extra comfort. Don’t skimp on the sleeping mat – it’s just as if not more important than a proper sleeping bag.
  3. I have three bags in total – known of them are meant for extreme weather. So I stack them. I have a Sierra designs cloud 800 0c degree bag, an As Tucas sestrals synthetic quilt – rated at about 0c as well, and a Sierra designs nitro 0F (-18c). In Sweden, anything warmer than a 0c bag has very little use except for in the warmest two weeks of the year unless summer is just extreme. With the Cloud 800 and As Tucas Sestrals, these bags are fantastic for the Swedish climate. In anycase, if I know I will be in – 30c or colder for extended periods than I stack my Nitro and as tucas quilt giving me a warmth that stretches down to about -35.

 

Here is a rather decent stacking guide that I stole from Enlightened Equipment:

 

Quilt/Bag Ratings 50ºF 40ºF 30ºF 20ºF 10ºF 0ºF
50ºF 30ºF 20ºF 10ºF 0ºF -10ºF -20ºF
40ºF 20ºF 10ºF 0ºF -10ºF -20ºF -30ºF
30ºF 10ºF 0ºF -10ºF -20ºF -30ºF -40ºF
20ºF 0ºF -10ºF -20ºF -30ºF -40ºF
10ºF -10ºF -20ºF -30 -40
0ºF -20ºF -30ºF -40ºF

 

This is in Farenheit, for our purposes it works – just keep in mind that Celcius and Farenheit meet at -40, 0 Fahrenheit is equal to -18 Celcius. 32 Fahrenheit is equal to 0 celcius.

I rarely use my Sierra designs nitro -18c bag – I prefer to stack as it’s usually a warmer option in almost every situation.

For temperatures between 0c and -20 I usually go with my two summer quilts – Cloud 800 and As tucas sestrals.

Skärmavbild 2019-01-18 kl. 06.23.48.png
xTherm on the bottom, Sierra designs cloud 800 35 in middle and as tucas sestrals apex 167 quilt on top. A great winter layering system

 

No matter which solution I choose – I always have the synthetic quilt on top of the down bag as synthetic handles the extra moisture much better than down does.

 

Shelter:

Bayard-winter-1.jpg
Picture stolen from the interwebs – Hyperlite mountain gear Ultamid 2

Shelter systems in the winter, much like summer can vary – my main recommendation is to find a tent that can handle everything. Wind, rain, snow – and is relatively easy to set up. I prefer the Hyperlite mountain gear Ultamid 2 or 4 for winter use. It’s the most solid winter tent I’ve ever used and gives me a lot of space to really live like a king. I know a few people such as Jörgen Johansson over at Fjäderlätt who likes his Black diamond Firstlight – even though it’s a tad small for him. I also like the Firstlight, but I don’t like how my head and feet mush the sides creating a lot of extra wetness on my bag and clothing. There are of course advantages to a free standing tent in the winter. If you don’t care too much about weight than there are tons of solutions out there with Hilleberg Suolo coming to mind among others.

In anycase, while a shelter is certainly important with a winter system, you could just as well bring a shovel and build a snow cave, or find a large pine and sleep under the snow drift. I prefer even the beauty of sleeping under the stars if weather permits.

 

Clothing:

 

If planned properly, your winter clothing can easily be a big part of your sleeping system – allowing you to leave one of your sleeping bags or quilts at home. This is a great solution for shorter trips where condensation is not going to be as big of a problem. If I’m leaving a quilt at home, which I can normally do in temperatures down to -10c. Than my winter sleep gear might comprise of the following:

  1. Wool long johns and long arm shirt
  2. Thick wool socks
  3. Fleece or wool sweater
  4. Down puffy jacket – something like the Cumulus incredilte – a great lightweight down puffy
  5. Down/synthetic puffy pants – The Omm Mountain raid pants are excellent synthetic pants as well as the Cumulus down basic pants
  6. Down/synthetic puffy socks
  7. Gloves
  8. Down/synthetic baklava or fleece beenie

 

This layering system gives me a lot of flexibility and warmth in camp – sometimes I even have two puffy down jackets with me depending on how low temperatures are expected to drop. This setup easily keeps me warm and comfortable walking around camp, as well as being part of my sleep system at night.

 

Food before bed

In the winter, keeping food and water in your system before going to bed is vital. Keeps the furnace burning hot for many hours. I try to load up on carbohydrates before bed, usually while lying in bed getting ready to sleep. This is usually in the form of pasta.

 

Run around

The way insulation in your sleep system works is that it keeps the warmth in. The more insulation the more warmth the sleep system is able to keep. The system itself does not create any warmth on it’s own. There is no heating element in your sleeping bag. This means that if you go to bed frozen, chances are the insulation will work more like refrigerator, keeping you nice and cold. This is why it’s important to get out and run a bit, or do jumping jacks, create a lot of internal heat before climbing into bed. Not so much that you are sweating, as the moisture will have an opposite effect.

This also falls in line with make sure you are ready for bed, before you actually climb in. Once you are in your sleeping bag or bags, body is warm, belly is full – make sure you stay in your bag. I have made the mistake a few times of being way too warm in my bag, got panicked and opened up the bag only to start freezing again.

 

Pee bottle

Staying tight in your sleep system is vital for overall comfort and warmth. This is also why a pee bottle is essential. Make sure you get a wide mouth bottle as this will help take away the guesswork and leave less room for error. The important aspect is to not open up your bag and climb out in order to go out and pee. Also, remember to keep a large volume bottle for this purpose as bodily fluids coming out in the winter are usually much more than at other times. It’s not unusual to pee close to a liters worth of fluid in the winter.

 

Extra bottles

In the winter, one of the biggest problems facing all hikers is keeping our feet and shoes warm. Some people place their shoes in the sleeping bag with them, others not so much. I fall into the category of “not so much”. I don’t want any moisture coming along with me into my sleeping bag. Not to mention, the wettest part of my entire system – my shoes. It is possible to keep your shoes in a water tight bag and put them in your sleeping bag with you. But then they are still wet in the morning. What works for me is a rather simple system: In the morning when I wake up, still tucked nice and warm in my sleeping bag, I cook water for my early morning coffee and breakfast and with that I cook extra water for two small water bottles. After I shake out as much of the frozen moisture as possible from my shoes, I then place the hot water bottles, one each, into each of my shoes. While I am eating breakfast, my shoes are getting nice and toasty – when I put my shoes on, my feet are encompassed with a warm and lovely feeling. Later on I have the added benefit of having two extra filled water bottles that I can drink while hiking.

48380881_10157024566983594_5375968052816904192_o.jpg
Small bottles are filled with warm water in the morning and used as feet warmers while I break down camp and eat breakfast. The bottles are then just regular water bottles during the day.  Picture stolen from http://www.fjaderlatt.se 

 

Practice

Before heading out on your trek across antarctica, it’s important to practice first, find what works for you and get comfortable with all the nuances of winter camping. Winter camping is both hell and joy at the sametime. Dangerous and fulfilling. Be smart and don’t take anything for granted. Just because you have this checklist doesn’t mean you are an expert – Theory and practice are two completely different things. This list will help you maximize your chances of success – but this is only a guide and not a guarantee. What works for me might not work for you.

A good place to practice is your backyard och nearby forest. Car camping is also a great starting place or in wind shelters. I spent a season or two just camping around in my local forest. My first backpacking trip in the winter once I was comfortable with my gear was a fairly popular mountain trail and I setup my tent about 50 meters from the different cottages. This way I could practice without putting myself in any major danger.

 

essentialsGear reviewstrekking poles

Gear review: Fizan compact trekking poles

A few weeks ago I was contacted by a representative from Massdrop on writing a review for one of their upcoming massdrops. For those of you not familiar with massdrop it’s a community or social shopping network that sets up different products for ridiculously cheap prices. For example right now they have an 800 down Enlightened Equipment high quality quilt on sale for 189usd. So the prices are fantastic and the products on offer are often of the highest quality.

Being the kind of guy I am, I have no problems exchanging my time for products and doing a review as long as I can fit it into my schedule. Also it’s not unusual for me to get request to do reviews for products and companies in the USA as a lot of my visitors to this site come from the USA. (Not so strange considering I write in English and come from the USA myself).

With that said, I have known about Fizan as a company for some time as they make trekking poles that are known throughout Europe as a high quality brand. I’m not sure if the products exist in the USA, but in Italy and Europe they have been around since the 1950’s and still being made in Italy.

The timing for Debbie over at Massdrop couldn’t have been better as I was in the market for a new pair of trekking poles as I’m not completely happy with the ones I have. I was in the market for highly adjustable, lightweight, aluminum poles. (I keep breaking my Carbon fiber poles). Feeling I would be more than happy to sacrifice some weight for the added strength of Aluminum.

Weight:

Anyway, I got my Fizan compact trekking poles in the mail a few days ago and I was immediately surprised by the writing on the poles ”worlds lightest trekking poles 158grams”. I thought – bull… But to be honest they are the lightest adjustable poles on the market which is pretty awesome. (Correct me if I’m wrong here). My current carbon fibre adjustable poles weigh in at 184 grams each. These with the straps and baskets weigh 175grams. Take off the straps and baskets (which I normally do) and were down to 158grams each. Light.

R0260522
175 grams with the basket and strap on. Hard to find Carbon fiber adjustable poles at this weight.

Quality

As I stated I haven’t had a whole lot of time to test these out, I have been out a few nights and walked a total of about 65 kilometers with varying weight on my backpack and with two different tents. (The MLD Duomid and the MLD Trailstar). The poles have held up well (holding the tents up) even in some really heavy wind and rain on one of my nights out.

The Fizan compacts use a three part proprietary interlocking system, that they have been using for years in their compact system without problems. I find no reason to doubt this interlocking system.

To be honest, I have no real issues with the quality here, as I said before, Fizan is a well known brand and I have had their poles once upon a time a few years back, they never let me down. I don’t feel like this will be issue with these poles either.

R0260489

Looks and feel

I think these poles look good, as good as trekking poles can look that is. They are still old people sticks (joke from my book), but do what they are suppose to do. I have seen much uglier poles. They do however feel fantastic. Weight and balance and even the tiniest of attention to details really stand out. I like the feel of the straps and how small the poles pack down to due to the three part adjustable system.

The color on the Massdrop sale for these pole swill be blue and not the red that is seen in these pictures.

Size

My Fizan compacts are adjustable from 58 centimeters (23 inches) to about 132 centimeters (52 inches) maxed out. In other words perfect from any toddler sized human to about my size 190cm (6’3”).

 

R0260515
The Fizan sticks holding up an MLD Duomid + Innertent

Specs:

Weight with straps and basket: 178grams each

Height: 58cm (23 inches) – 132 centimenters (52 inches)

Material: 7001 Lightweight Aluminum

Locking: Proprietary Flexy internal locking system

Grips: Ergonomic EVA foam grip with rounded plastic top

3 sets of removable baskets: 35, 50, and 95 mm

Suggested price: $59.99

Massdrop start date: Monday, June 5 at 6 a.m. PST.

Address for the massdrop site and sticks:

https://www.massdrop.com/buy/massdrop-fizan-compact?utm_source=Iterable&iterableCampaignId=122529&iterableTemplateId=178324&utm_campaign=massdrop_x_fizan_compact_trekking_poles&mode=guest_open&referer=C9BLKJ&utm_medium=email

 

PROS:

Lightweight adjustable poles

Aluminum

Extra baskets

Cheap (to be honest, I’m surprised by the price on these.. This is cheap)

Great brand

Made in Italy

 

CONS:

Aluminum (You can get lighter with non-adjustable carbon fiber)

The tips on these are wider than standard trekking poles which means the pole extender on the MLD Duomid won’t work. That’s why in the picture above I use PVC piping instead of the carbon fiber pole extender.

Perhaps shouldn’t be used as ski poles…. . .


The Fizan compact poles are an excellent compliment to the MLD Trailstar as they are highly adjustable.

 

TO read more about these poles check out this excellent, detailed review:

https://www.massdrop.com/talk/1797/upcoming-massdrop-x-fizan-collaboration?utm_placement=3&referer=PYEQYA&mode=guest_open&utm_campaign=Automated%20Daily%20Promotional%202017-05-26&utm_source=SparkPost&utm_medium=email&utm_term=Daily%20Promotional&utm_content=1495797900732.028910651407058611965059

 

backpackingessentialsGearGoing Lighterultralight

The UL Jacket – Essential gear for any backpacker

I once wrote an article a long time ago about the ultralight wind jacket and how I felt it was the single most important piece of gear for any backpacking regardless of your weight preferences. (Whether you enjoy ultralight or prefer being heavy and miserable.. ) I would like to propose that the second piece of essential gear for any backpacker would be an ultralight down jacket (synthetic works as well but usually heavier for the same warmth). For the last 3 years I have been using a lightweight down jacket that weighs at around 180grams for the XL size. (Haglöfs L.I.M essens down). I find this jacket much like the wind jacket allows me to leave a few extra layers at home. And the down jacket combined with a wind jacket is hard to beat in weight to warmth ratio.

unnamed

When I talk about ul down jacket I mean any down jacket under 200grams for a large size.

My typical three season layer scheme looks something like this:

Wool or bamboo fiber Shirt 150grams – main layer always on

Windjacket with hood 80grams – Always with me and depending on weather usually always on (in the nordic regions of the world)

Down jacket 188grams – I usually put my down jacket on the minute I stop for the day. It’s very rare that I actually need this while hiking.

Total weight: 418grams or about 1 lbs.

That’s it. That’s my entire upper layering system for most three season hikes. If it’s raining I put my rain jacket on (so fourth layer). And depending on how long I am gone I usually don’t bother with a an extra shirt to sleep in, unless I will be hiking in wet and cold regions. Also, as you can see, I don’t bother with sweaters or thicker shirts or anything else that usually becomes redundant and heavy when you have a light down or synthetic jacket. Most sweaters, wool or otherwise, are going to be heavier than a down jacket and won’t be anywhere near as warm.

This setup will easily keep me warm to down around 30 degrees farenheit. So even on cold nights when the temperature will drop to 20 degrees, I can keep warm and snug at night in my three season gear (quilt, sleeping pad and down jacket).

As with any high quality UL product, lighter usually means more expensive, but there are always exceptions to this rule. However no-matter what, your never going to get into silly money prices that you could end up paying for when purchasing main stream products that weigh much more. If you inclined to do so, there are a few MYOG patterns and kits for synthetic and even down UL jackets. When my current jacket breaks down I will probably replace it with a synthetic jacket. Main reason being that I use this same setup even in the winter with the inclusion of a thick down puffy, which creates more moisture, and that breaks down my inner down. So, a synthetic would fix this problem.

Ultralight Down and Synthetic jackets:
Haglöfs L.I.M Essens down
Western Mountaineering Flash jacket
Yeti streto ultralight down
Crux turbo top
Mountain Hardware ghost whisperer
Mountain hardware Micro Thermostatic (synthetic)
OMM Rotor smock (synthetic)

These are just a few of the ul jackets currently available as of this writing.

If your interested in sewing your own:

The kinsman insulated pullover is the best design I’ve found

http://thru-hiker.com/kits/kinsman_kit.php